A tiny nation in the Baltics; Latvia is best described as an unspoilt reserve of lakes, forests, sandy beaches and beautiful medieval towns with an attractive capital city.
Bordered by Russia, Estonia, Belarus and Lithuania, Latvia declared independence in 1918 and became a member of the European Union in 2004. The long-spread history of the country creates a colourful tapestry and has left behind a country with more cultural layers than any of its Baltic neighbours. The Soviet occupation of Latvia resulted in a Russian minority population; whilst Riga, the capital city, is a bilingual region, the rest of Latvia remains divided by language and culture.
For those keen to stray away from the beaten tracks of Europe, Latvia presents stunning countryside, a beautiful Old Town heart and a myriad of festivals as a testament to their layered culture.
Whilst the country is small, you’ll find that personal space is a given here. Whichever patch of sandy beach, pristine forest or charming lakeside you find yourself on, you’ll have it all to yourself.
Combine all of the above, and you have a gem of a destination waiting to be explored. This Latvia travel guide presents all you need to know about this charming Baltic country;
The best time to visit Latvia or any of the Baltic states for that matter is late spring or summer (May to September).
During these periods, there’s little to no rain; the fine weather allows you to freely explore the cities and towns on foot and embark on significant adventures into the countryside. However, whilst this period is expected to bring ideal conditions for exploring, extremely changeable weather is not uncommon.
On the flip side, if you want to see snow, then winter is the best time to go. Just be aware that the days are short here and it will get dark around 4-5 pm between November and February so you’ll want to plan your days out accordingly.
Riga
The one real city in this vast, unspoilt parkland; Riga is Latvia’s capital.
Dominated by Gothic spires, the cityscape is one of initial austerity. Still, as you venture deeper within, you’ll find a vibrant cosmopolitan city full of modern art museums, quirky bars and a thriving food scene. Established in the early 13th century, Riga boomed into a thriving hub of industry, trade and transit. Today, it is the largest of the three Baltic capitals and its rich history has been preserved in its atmospheric Old Town in the heart of the city.
In 1967, the Old Town of Riga was designated as a national protected zone, and later, in 1997, it was added to UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites. Riga’s spell as an important port and merchant city during the Middle Ages is demonstrated in the Old Town’s architecture; the Small and Great Guild Halls and the House of Blackheads are a nod to this prosperous era.
Riga tours will guide you to the city’s medieval-era buildings where you’ll observe the various architectural styles - Romanticism, Gothic, Mannerism, Baroque, Eclectic and Modernism. The 13th-century Riga Cathedral, St Jacob’s Church and the highest church tower in the city, St Peter’s Church, are also essential stops on any Riga travel itinerary.
Cape Kolka
The point at which the two seas, the open Baltic Sea and the Gulf of Riga, come crashing together; Cape Kolka is the pronounced peninsula which juts out from Latvia’s shores.
During Soviet times, this horn-shaped peninsula was closed off as a high-security military base, strictly zoned off to civilians. The result today is one of both haunting beauty and enchanting history. With the region’s development stunted, the string of coastal villages and desolate lands that occupy this peninsula feel as though you are opening a time capsule as you arrive.
For those looking to do a tour of Slitere National Park, Cape Kolka is the place. During migration season, it is also one of the best places to experience thousands upon thousands of birds flying over the cape. Come summer, you’ll want to make this day trip from Riga just to lounge on the beach and enjoy its remote beauty.
Cesis & Cesis Castle
A firm favourite on any Latvia itinerary, Cesis is a charming little town in Eastern Latvia known for its medieval-era buildings, cobblestone streets and its impressive castle complete with landscaped gardens, a church, museum and old brewery.
With over eight centuries of history, Cesis is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in the Baltics. At the heart of the town is the stunning Cesis Castle; its foundations were laid over eight centuries years ago, and whilst it has been adapted many times, it remains one of the most iconic medieval castles in Latvia. The romantic architectural appearance was added in the 16th century, and it’s the one you’ll still see today.
Day tours from Riga will take you to Cesis, but it is also worthy of a longer stay, especially if you plan to explore the squares of its old town, visit the legendary St. John’s Church or discover the Gauja National Park.
Sigulda
Just a short one-hour train or bus ride from Riga, Sigulda is where you can unleash your inner adventurer.
From obstacle courses high up in the treetops to open-air adventure parks, Sigulda offers it all. Hiking, kayaking, bungee jumping, mountain biking and winter permitting, snowboarding and skiing, are just a handful of the many opportunities on offer here.
In a relatively flat country, Sigulda sits on a rare elevated plain above the stunning Gauja River valley, surrounded by dense forest which turns flaming red come autumn. Locals are fully aware of Sigulda’s beauty and flock here at the weekend; if there’s one other place besides Riga that you have time for on your holidays in Latvia, make it Sigulda.
Rundale Palace
In the historical region of Zemgale lies the magnificent Rundale Palace, a hidden gem of Latvia.
Originally built in the 16th century, the palace was modified in the 18th century for the Duke of Courland as the grand residence. Today, the palace’s stunning late-Baroque style is a nod to 18th-century aristocratic life, and its grandeur is a highlight of rural Latvia. When visiting, you can explore over 40 of the palace’s 138 rooms as well as the formal gardens, designed with inspiration from the gardens of the Palace of Versailles.
Western Latvia
One of three popular destinations in western Latvia after Ventspils and Kuldiga; Liepaja is a port city where grit and creativity go hand in hand to create a city with an interesting identity. If you’re looking for Latvia’s most beautiful beach and the music scene to match, you’ll find it here.
Like Liepaja, Ventspils sits on the coast, but unlike its neighbour, it’s rather beautiful for a port city. It is where 17th-century port workshops and storehouses, a beautiful beach and a charming cobblestone old town coexist alongside modern producing facilities and an abundance of leisure activities.
Last but certainly not least, Kuldiga is the smallest of the three cities in western Latvia, but its charming townscape complete with well-preserved architecture makes it worth a visit.
Jurmala
Don’t get caught up sounding like a Latvia tourist, Jurmala is pronounced yoor-muh-lah.
A strip of land rather than a city, Jurmala is made up of 14 townships, each complete with unique Prussian-style villages, spanning 32 kilometres. These townships were where the locals holidayed, and the elite flocked during the height of communism.
Today, the townships of Majori and Dzintari sit at the heart of the action presenting Jurmala’s main tourist drag with hotels and restaurants aplenty. What’s special about this strip of land is; however, that the buildings are set back several hundred metres from the beach allowing the preservation of the pristine seashore.
Travelling around Latvia is relatively straightforward. Public transport is plentiful and cheap; from the capital, Riga, to the long-distance journeys to the countryside, you’ll find the country is well-connected and easy to travel.
In general, you’ll find that buses are quicker than trains. When visiting Riga, you can expect to pay no more than five euros for a day bus pass that will get you to all the top places to visit. The BalticBike borrowing system operates in the cities of Riga and Jurmala and allows you to pick-up and drop-off bicycles in various points around the city for as little as 1.50 euros an hour.
When travelling the rest of the country, the extensive rail and bus network will serve you well. You will have to purchase all of your tickets in advance and in Riga, there are different windows at the station for purchasing long-distance (starpilsetu) and suburban (pirpelsetu) trains.
If you’re looking to be independent, then you can hire a rental car. Whilst there’s not a great deal of traffic in Latvia, the roads are notoriously bad, and speeding is an issue.
For the flexibility and comfort that travelling in a private car allows, you can opt for a private tour of Latvia with a local guide. You can relax in the comfort that they know the roads and the best places to take you to. Our Local Designers in Latvia are ready and waiting to design your perfect trip to suit your travel style and budget.
As the country grows in popularity, as will the accommodation options. For now, accommodation in Latvia is limited.
In Riga and Jurmala, you’ll find a wealth of youth hostels, good-value hotels and guesthouses as well as self-catering private rooms and apartments to rent. In peak season (summer), the hotels and guesthouses tend to be the first to fill up so book in advance.
Beyond the main cities, you’ll find very reasonably-priced guesthouses and campsites are in abundance. Most are family-run and will be your go-to if you intend to explore the countryside.
Like many eastern European countries, meat, fish and potatoes form the heart of Latvian cuisine. However, there is something to suit every palate and here’s what you can expect to eat and drink in Latvia;
Rye Bread
Rye bread is very popular in Latvia; expect all different shapes, sizes, sweetness and shades for this popular breakfast food. You’ll find that almost every dish here is served up with rye bread and breakfast is made complete with a few slices topped with butter, cheese or ham.
Beetroot Soup
Popular in both Latvia and its neighbour, Lithuania, this bright purple soup is made from beetroot, garlic, cream and herbs. There’s also a cold version of this dish with cucumbers, effs, herbs and kefir!
Kvass
Made from rye bread, kvass is classed as non-alcoholic despite containing 1.2% alcohol. Kvass draws many similarities to beer, yet it is much sweeter.
Speck
Speck is smoked bacon made from pork belly. It is an extremely fatty food which became popular many centuries ago when it was traditionally served to field workers with a side of fried onions to keep up their energy. You can try speck in a simple dish with peas and fried onions.
Pickled Foods
Latvians love to produce and consume pickled foods. From the popular sauerkraut which is made with chopped pickled cabbage and served with almost every dish, to foods that you wouldn’t imagine ever pickling - it’s all here at the local markets!
Smoked Fish
Chances are if Latvians are not pickling food, they are smoking it. Thanks to Latvia’s maritime location, fish makes up a large part of the national cuisine. Cod, pike and eel dishes are most common. Add sides of potatoes and onions, and you’ll begin to understand the basics of Latvian food.
Potato Pancakes
Easily grown in local fields, potatoes have been a staple of Latvian cuisine for centuries. Whilst you may never have encountered pancakes made from potatoes, Latvians could not imagine life without them. Served with a hefty dose of sour cream and speck sauce, this is a dish you must try.
Dill
Head to any Baltic state, and you’ll find dill is the dominant herb. If you’re not a fan, be warned; dill makes an appearance in almost every dish in Latvian cuisine. Smoked fish, potato pancakes and fried mushrooms are perfectly complemented by this herb.
Riga Black Balsam
Whilst imported beer as well as local brews are widely available, to really feel like a local, you should try Riga Melnais Balzams. This dark, bitter liqueur is made from a coveted recipe of roots and herbs. At 45%, it is potent but is believed to cure most ailments.
Riga Opera Festival - June
For lovers of opera, this sophisticated event sparked the country’s love for public musical concerts almost 30 years ago. Held in the capital city, this festival takes place every year as a tradition to promote Latvia’s talented singers and musicians.
Riga City Festival - August
Taking over the city for a week, Riga City Festival is one of the biggest cultural events in the country. With something for every traveller to experience, you can find expert free music events, fireworks shows, craft markets, pop-up food stalls and plenty of fun and frolicking in the streets.
Song and Dance Festival - July
Honouring Latvian folk culture, this is one of the most enigmatic festivals in Latvia. Choral music, folk dance and dancers in regional costumes flood the streets and stadiums of Riga every five years in a huge celebration of Latvia’s rich folk culture.
Cesis Castle Medieval Fair - May
Step into the Middle Ages for a day as locals don traditional clothes in a celebration of Latvia’s rich history and culture. Just an hour away from Riga, Cesis Castle opens up for the day allowing fair-goers to flood its sprawling lawns, gardens and dungeons to gain insight into the medieval days. Expect traditional food, dancing, art and lots of merriment.
Riga Restaurant Week - May & October
We’ve already established that Latvians are incredibly proud of their heritage, now it’s onto their food. Riga Restaurant Week is a festival to promote Latvian cuisine and Baltic food in a bi-annual, week-long festival of pop-up food stalls, interesting menus and gourmet kitchens.
Currency: Latvia has used the Euro since July 2014. However, you’ll find that a lot of places, such as countryside guesthouses, still display prices in Lats.
Language: Both Latvian and Russian are widely spoken. In the bigger cities of Riga and Jurmala, you’ll get by with English and a little Latvian, but it is worth having a phrasebook handy.
Religion: A majority of Latvians are Christians, divided into Russian Orthodox, Roman Catholic, Protestant and others.
Pointing: Latvians consider the gesture of pointing with one finger very rude; gesture with your whole hand when pointing to something.
Tipping: A tip of ten per cent is reasonable for good service in a restaurant in Latvia.
Reserved: Latvians can be rather reserved, so a handshake over a hug is a much better greeting.
Communities: The Russian and Latvian communities within Latvia rarely mix.
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